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07-12-2013, 04:05 PM, (This post was last modified: 07-12-2013, 04:07 PM by Mr RCOM.)
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
Yeah I didn't mean it like I thought you got ripped... I guess this time around I shoulda got a better product than going the cheap a$$ route lol

But funny thing is when I was searching I saw some RV site selling single bulbs for like 60 bucks. Now that's crazy!
LoLrcycle rider Cool
07-12-2013, 06:24 PM,
Re: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
Yeah that's nuts. And If you only paid fiveish bucks for an led light...*shrug
'07 Double One Hundred Custom Black Cherry w/Ghost flames
Cobra Speedster Slashdown pipes
Barons ORK
Disabled AIS
Cobra Carb Needles
Every cage is trying to kill you so always remember, Grip it and Rip it!!!

07-28-2013, 06:19 PM,
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
(07-10-2013, 05:20 PM)Mr RCOM Wrote: Shameless bump... can someone help me with my brightness problem?

I know this post is about 7 or 8 months old but I didn't see a specific reply to your question about reducing the brightness of the running-light circuit and it's actually a pretty simple thing to do. You could try splicing a 1N4001 diode in series in the supply wire for the running circuit. That will drop approximately .7 volts. You want the banded end of the diode facing the light. (You'll know if you get the diode backwards - the light won't work at all :) ) So, if these LED replacement "bulbs" are otherwise suitable this should make them usable (usually the complaint I hear about LED lighting is it's never bright enough or is too directional - I think this is the first time I've encountered a case where somebody wanted to make them dimmer).

The nice thing about using a diode for the dropper is that if you have to revert to an incandescent bulb in a pinch the light will still work, though a little dimmer than before. If you use a resistor to drop the voltage the higher current of the incandescent bulb will drop the voltage so low the bulb won't light.

If the 1N4001 is not enough of a dimmer for you just use 2 diodes in series, etc. You can get them at Radio Shack for a few cents.

Another thing to keep in mind, though, is that LED lights will work much better if the LEDs are spread more evenly across the available surface, and inside the brake/tail light you've actually got some room to do that. I will probably make my own custom tail light with about twenty to thirty diodes on a clear plexiglass substrate.
I made my own safety flashers when I was riding bicycles on the road that people said made it look like my arse was on fire from several hundred feet away in daylight - and they would run for several hours on four double-AA alkaline batteries. :)

07-29-2013, 12:46 PM,
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
This is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah it is kinda wierd that I'd want to dim it... but its just to try and separate the visual difference between the running light brightness and the brake light difference.

Again thanks a ton
LoLrcycle rider Cool
07-30-2013, 12:13 PM,
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
found this site that a bud that met at LSR uses lots of their stuff.

have been considering converting all the camper, truck and bike non headlight bulbs to led.
2006 VStar Stratoliner, Freedom Performance split dual exhaust, Mustang seats, Sissy bar with back rack, bolted saddlebags to mounts.
Life's tough .. it's even tougher if you're stupid. - John Wayne

07-30-2013, 01:56 PM,
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
I've seen this site before... they got a lot of cool stuff. When I switched to this led it doesn't shine thru a cutout I made in the bottom of the housing to illuminate the license plate... its not a super big deal but last night I saw a dude who had some kind of leds or neon around his plate and it got me thinking about dointlg the same
LoLrcycle rider Cool
08-12-2013, 07:42 PM,
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
I was researching some 1157 replacement bulbs and remembered this thread. The diode I recommended might or might not help you. The makers of the LED replacements already do something similar internally, and therein lies the rub.

A typical 1157 incandescent bulb has roughly a 10:1 brightness ratio between the low intensity and high intensity filaments. In an LED replacement if you use all of the LEDs for both low and high intensity, using diode steering to adjust the current through them, the absolute best you're going to do is about 5:1 and that's really pushing the envelope. I'd guess that most of the commercial LED replacement bulbs are probably running at about 2.5:1 to 3:1.

If you use more than one LED type, and use some strands only for the high intensity circuit, you can get a 10:1 or better ratio. It doesn't look like any MFRs are doing this though - probably because of a combination of cost and the fact that they want all LEDs lit to improve the viewing angle.

08-12-2013, 08:44 PM,
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
Please allow me to chime in. LED or light emitting diode is a directional light, meaning when you view it straight on it is bright but on angle the light will be diminished. One way to combat this is to experiment with varying types of reflective material inside your light housing. The grooves and bumps inside a stock light lens assist in the reflection or refraction of the stock bulb. A standard 1157 bulb is more similar to a flood style light, meaning no matter the angle the brightness will be almost identical. Finally, it is very probable your LED bulb is bad! (I just went through this) to test, run 12v straight from battery to bulb. Next, jump from your brake line hot lead to positive side on bulb. You should see a dramatic difference when looking directly into the face of the LED's, if you don't, bulb is no good. Only other alternative is the LED bulb you bought is not intended to be a STOP & TAIL bulb, it is only meant to be a tail bulb. (Just went through this too)
A great man once said you can never learn if you don't ask.
08-12-2013, 08:52 PM,
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
well right now inside my box is aluminium speed tape... i tried to put in wrinkle free as best as i could and right now its probly the best im gonna get reflection wise from inside the box. the lens itself is actually from an floresent light fixture's lens cover.... i had a busted cover and just dremeled out a recangle and fit it up. back when i used a plain ol 1154 i had to paint that lens with some brake light paint to get the red but now since the bulb is red i could go with a clear lens... thatll probly give me some more brightness.

but for now im kinda like whatev.... its been working so far so why mess with marginal success? haha
LoLrcycle rider Cool
04-14-2014, 11:08 PM, (This post was last modified: 04-14-2014, 11:10 PM by 4given.)
RE: Review of the LED 1157 replacement.
I was told by zowwie438 from eBay, which I bought his tai8l light brake light modulator, ( you got to check this out. 4 fast 4 slow and on) for led that CREE is the latest technology. You run on a regular led and when you it the brake light the CREE part is magnified and glows like nothing you have ever seen. Sti9ll looking for the perfect bulb but he recommends not to buy cheap China made bulbs. Also You can add a bunch more leds onto this modulator.
Go to eBay and search Brake light modulator or lookup buyer zowwie438. This guy is really into safety for motorcyclists and he owns a V Star.

I also heard that red is best on a red lens. Whit leds make the red lens lose it red color and make look orange or worse.
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