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06-02-2015, 10:16 AM, (This post was last modified: 06-02-2015, 11:12 AM by csonni.)
#1
Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
First full day on my 2002 v star 650 Classic which has been previously ridden by the original owner for only 12,000 miles. I wanted to mention a few things I've observed thus far and maybe can get a little direction or advice here.


First, when starting in neutral, I notice the bike lurches just a bit and then, when shifting into 1st gear, it will lurch a bit as well. I figured neutral is neutral, so I'm not sure why it would jump a bit- nothing disconcerting- just a bit. There is a bit of loose play in the clutch lever. It doesn't sit tight.

Secondly, I notice that the self cancelling signal lights don't see to cancel out when completing a turn. Is there some sort of adjustment?

Thirdly, there front brakes are awfully squeeley/scrapey when applied. Visually, the pads appear to be fine. Should I take the front brakes apart and clean?

Fourth, the front shocks seem a bit soft. Not bouncy- just easy to compress. An issue?

Fifth, I notice there is no heel part of the shifter- just toe. Maybe the original owner changed that?

Thanks for any comments on this post.
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06-02-2015, 10:41 AM, (This post was last modified: 06-02-2015, 11:00 AM by OldePhart.)
#2
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
Welcome to our zoo!

1a) There is no reason for the bike to lurch in neutral. Something seems off, there. However, it is best to always start with the clutch pulled in even if you are in neutral...less load on the starter.
1b) A little bit of lurch/clunk when shifting into first is normal, especially when the engine is cold. On the 650 if you adjust the clutch tight enough to eliminate the lurch you won't have much friction zone. If the lurch is excessive then adjust the clutch.
1c) The clutch lever should be pretty stable. If it is sloppy loose there is an issue which might be resolved by adjusting the clutch.

1b and 1c are related and both might be fixed by tightening the clutch a little. Just take it in small baby steps and don't try to completely eliminate the clunk into first or you will have no friction zone to work with.

2) Lights not cancelling can be any of several things; bad/aftermarket flasher relay, bad/aftermarket switch, bad sending unit on speedometer cable. Oh, make sure they really aren't working, though. These self cancelling signals don't cancel immediately after a turn like those on a car. They count pulses from the speedometer cable and turn off the flasher after a couple of hundred feet of travel.

3) If the bike hasn't been ridden for a while (sometimes as little as a week or two) there will be some light rust on the rotor. If the squealing doesn't stop after you've ridden it a few times then you might want to look at it further.

4) The fork should be pretty firm, and is critical to handling and braking. Check for leakage around the seals. It could be something as simple as needing a bit of fluid. If the fork is really loose it can amplify the squeak/shake from the brake rotor so there could be some crossover between 3 and 4, here. Forks can be a pain and that's one of the jobs I leave for the pros.

5) I'm not certain but I don't think heel shifters were stock on any of the 650s.

Finally, it sounds like the previous owner was pretty sloppy about maintenance. A sloppy loose clutch cable is pretty unforgivable, in my book, as are mushy forks. I would check/change all the fluids (don't forget the rear drive) and adjust the valves, etc. (Actually, I would do the fluids, at least, after buying any used bike.) If you're not much of a wrench I'd seriously consider investing the bucks to have it serviced by a factory authorized shop. It won't be cheap, and depending on the shop they might recommend a few things you don't absolutely need, but they also might spot dangerous conditions that you would miss. 12K miles is not particularly high mileage, but the bike is also 13 years old and some critical parts deteriorate over time regardless of the mileage.

A mechanically safe and reliable ride is especially critical if you are a new rider...

John
===========================
2011 V-Star 650 Custom (new in fall 2013)
V&H Cruzer Pipes, Memphis Shades Bat Wing, Floorboards, Highway Bars,
Locking Bags, Tail Rack, LED Signals & Aux Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator,
Brake Light Modulator, 5/8" Gel Pad Under Upholstery.
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06-02-2015, 11:01 AM, (This post was last modified: 06-02-2015, 11:03 AM by Maustarman.)
#3
Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
1a & 1b -I'm with what @oldephart says

2- the self cancellation feature isn't about completing the turn is about distance and/or speed. Manual says Turn signals will cancel after you reach 490 feet or 30 mph.
So, are your lights not canceling at all or you don't feel they cancel fast enough?

3- I agree with john's above statement

4- yes, they need to be looked at, follow john's instructions. The only thing I would say different is that they are actually not that difficult to just ad a bit of oil to them. If you had to rebuild them that's a different history.

5- classic and Silverado do have the heel to toe shifts as factory feature except for the early models.
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06-02-2015, 11:17 AM, (This post was last modified: 06-02-2015, 11:42 AM by csonni.)
#4
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
(06-02-2015, 10:41 AM)OldePhart Wrote: Thanks for the good reply. I will check into all that.
(06-02-2015, 10:41 AM)OldePhart Wrote: I just went out to drain the oil and it's nearly impossible to use the included open-end wrench to loosed the drain bolt. I'd rather not chance on rounding the head. I gave the wrench a few taps with a hammer with no luck. No room at all for getting a socket on that bolt nor any other wrench for that matter. Due to the design, any wrench needs to be very thin or any socket is going to have to be very shallow to clear the kickstand nut on the other side of the frame. And as for the oil level window- it looks like one has to use a flashlight. I can't see any level line in there with all the reflection.
(06-02-2015, 10:41 AM)OldePhart Wrote: Update: That bolt is frozen on there. Gonna have to have a service man at our local shop loosen it. Will replace it with a new one for sure.
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06-02-2015, 11:25 AM, (This post was last modified: 06-02-2015, 11:31 AM by OldePhart.)
#5
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
The oil drain bolt can be a bit of a pain but the Yamaha tools are junk. Get yourself a good set of metric combination wrenches (open/box end).

The lovely oil inspection window is one of those things that make me want to meet a Yamaha engineer in a dark alley some night... You have to warm the bike up good so the oil is flowing freely, otherwise even fresh oil will coat the glass and make it hard to see. The bike has to be held upright, when it is on the side stand the oil completely covers the window. I used to use an inspection mirror and flashlight. Recently I came up with a better plan that works a treat. I start recording video on my cell phone, prop it up on my gloves so it is pointed at the inspection window, and then straddle the bike and bring it up level. Then, I review the video.

Oh, one final thing, check those tires closely. At 12k miles they have probably been changed at least once, but you don't know how long ago that was done and tires rot. They can rot really fast if in the weather and exposed to sunlight (UV breaks down the rubber). Given the overall condition of the bike as you've described it I'd be surprised if the tires aren't rotted pretty badly.

Search google images for tire dry rot...if your tires show any of those fine cracks get them replaced ASAP. Don't forget to check in the tread channels, not just the sidewalls. A blowout in a car is an inconvenience but a blowout on a bike is going to leave even very experienced riders eating asphalt!
===========================
2011 V-Star 650 Custom (new in fall 2013)
V&H Cruzer Pipes, Memphis Shades Bat Wing, Floorboards, Highway Bars,
Locking Bags, Tail Rack, LED Signals & Aux Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator,
Brake Light Modulator, 5/8" Gel Pad Under Upholstery.
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06-02-2015, 11:46 AM,
#6
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
(06-02-2015, 11:25 AM)OldePhart Wrote: Actually, this bike is in mint shape, but as you say, some of these issues have been overlooked. It's been serviced at the local shop that sells bikes, etc. They said they'd loosen the drain bolt up for me this afternoon. Shops have a tendency of cranking things tight so you have to come back and have them service it. I hate that. I did spray it with seafoam penetrant but doesn't seem to help. As for the tires, there's no sign of rot, although the back tire tread is not the best.
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06-02-2015, 11:52 AM, (This post was last modified: 06-02-2015, 12:23 PM by pauli466.)
#7
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
using a full sythetic oil will eliminate clutch grab on mine it also smooth out the operation too. they sell a spring kit on e-bay to get the slack out of the clutch cable so that you can keep the play in it. otherwise if you adjust the slack out it grabs to high. my signals will only self cancel after. 1/10 of a mile.. i cut my heel shifter off. because for me it was useless. i changed out the oem brake pads to organic as the originals are to noisy and to aggressive. for me anyway i fear washing out when the front brake is grabby. there's a spanner wrench in the tool kit for adjusting the rear shock it's under the seat has 7 positions.#3 is factory setting. the higher the number the stiffer the ride. use a glove when using the spanner wrench its a real nuckle buster. jumpy as hell. block up the kickstand for access to the oil drain a long box wrench will be needed or you can hook two combination wrenches together which is how i do it.
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06-02-2015, 12:12 PM,
#8
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
i have seen the heel shifter you are speaking of, i was like why bother, the front is good for the foot to get on top of, the back more like just a spoon. i believe mine was changed out as both front and back are the same.
2006 VStar Stratoliner, Freedom Performance split dual exhaust, Mustang seats, Sissy bar with back rack, bolted saddlebags to mounts.
Life's tough .. it's even tougher if you're stupid. - John Wayne

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06-02-2015, 12:16 PM,
#9
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
(06-02-2015, 11:52 AM)pauli466 Wrote: using a full sythetic oil will eliminate clutch grab on mine it also smooth out the operation too. they sell a spring kit on e-bay to get the slack out of the clutch cable so that you can keep the play in it. otherwise if you adjust the slack out it grabs to high. my signals will only self cancel after. 1/10 of a mile.. i cut my heel shifter off. because for me it was useless. i changed out the oem brake pads to organic as the originals are to noisy and to aggressive. for me anyway i fear washing out when the front brake is grabby. there's a spanner wrench in the tool kit for adjusting the rear shock it's under the seat has 7 positions.#3 is factory setting.
I've been typing my response in the wrong place. Sorry guys.
Yamalube is quite expensive here for just regular 20W50- $10 plus a litre. I think I can get Castrol synthetic. This time of year, we still get temps close to freezing, so maybe 20W50 might not be a good idea. Maybe 10W30 or 10W40.
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06-02-2015, 12:43 PM,
#10
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
@csonni I have for years used diesel truck oil and has been great plus being much more affordable, my 919 rocket buddy uses it too and believe me he does not take it easy on that bike. Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic oil which here is available pretty much any car parts or wally.
2006 VStar Stratoliner, Freedom Performance split dual exhaust, Mustang seats, Sissy bar with back rack, bolted saddlebags to mounts.
Life's tough .. it's even tougher if you're stupid. - John Wayne

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06-02-2015, 01:01 PM,
#11
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
(06-02-2015, 12:16 PM)csonni Wrote:
(06-02-2015, 11:52 AM)pauli466 Wrote: using a full sythetic oil will eliminate clutch grab on mine it also smooth out the operation too. they sell a spring kit on e-bay to get the slack out of the clutch cable so that you can keep the play in it. otherwise if you adjust the slack out it grabs to high. my signals will only self cancel after. 1/10 of a mile.. i cut my heel shifter off. because for me it was useless. i changed out the oem brake pads to organic as the originals are to noisy and to aggressive. for me anyway i fear washing out when the front brake is grabby. there's a spanner wrench in the tool kit for adjusting the rear shock it's under the seat has 7 positions.#3 is factory setting.
I've been typing my response in the wrong place. Sorry guys.
Yamalube is quite expensive here for just regular 20W50- $10 plus a litre. I think I can get Castrol synthetic. This time of year, we still get temps close to freezing, so maybe 20W50 might not be a good idea. Maybe 10W30 or 10W40.
yamalube? hell your just paying for a name, it has the same api specs as any multi wt oil on the market. just order the oil you want on line if it's not available in your area. i use amsoil because it a gl5 rated oil meaning it's shear stable. the transmission shears the heck out of oil.
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06-02-2015, 01:17 PM,
#12
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
(06-02-2015, 11:25 AM)csonni Wrote: Actually, this bike is in mint shape, but as you say, some of these issues have been overlooked. It's been serviced at the local shop that sells bikes, etc. They said they'd loosen the drain bolt up for me this afternoon. Shops have a tendency of cranking things tight so you have to come back and have them service it. I hate that. I did spray it with seafoam penetrant but doesn't seem to help. As for the tires, there's no sign of rot, although the back tire tread is not the best.

Honestly, any shop that "serviced" the bike and missed a spongy fork and really loose clutch would not rank very highly in my list of places I'd trust. The clutch I could maybe forgive...that's sort of subjective and the previous owner may have liked it that way. The spongy fork is a pretty serious safety issue.
===========================
2011 V-Star 650 Custom (new in fall 2013)
V&H Cruzer Pipes, Memphis Shades Bat Wing, Floorboards, Highway Bars,
Locking Bags, Tail Rack, LED Signals & Aux Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator,
Brake Light Modulator, 5/8" Gel Pad Under Upholstery.
Reply
06-02-2015, 01:45 PM,
#13
Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
Just had the shop loosen my drain bolt with a simple tap on the wrench. Must have loosened up from my spray. The oil I can get here is Castrol 10W40, Castrol Synthetic (can't remember the weight) Yamalube Semi-Synthetic 10W40 and Yamalube Synthetic 15W50. It's $16 a litre for synthetic. I might check out Amsoil online.
Earlier, it was alluded that 12,000 miles wasn't exceptionally (high or low). I thought it was quite low. Don't these engines get 60 or 70,000 if well maintained?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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06-02-2015, 02:49 PM,
#14
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
@csonni that all sounds like motorcycle specific oils, those will be more costly and not any better. like @pauli466 said amsoil if you are spending that kinda $ is a great oil, so is schaeffer but both are mail order or through a dealer so not easy to just go get a change. thats why I do not like Interstate Batteries either, only specific places to get and warranty. I want ease of availability and in case something goes wrong can get in touch in the evening and weekends.
2006 VStar Stratoliner, Freedom Performance split dual exhaust, Mustang seats, Sissy bar with back rack, bolted saddlebags to mounts.
Life's tough .. it's even tougher if you're stupid. - John Wayne

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06-02-2015, 03:21 PM,
#15
RE: Some newbie observations on my 2002 V Star
(06-02-2015, 02:49 PM)Keith Wrote: @csonni that all sounds like motorcycle specific oils, those will be more costly and not any better. like @pauli466 said amsoil if you are spending that kinda $ is a great oil, so is schaeffer but both are mail order or through a dealer so not easy to just go get a change. thats why I do not like Interstate Batteries either, only specific places to get and warranty. I want ease of availability and in case something goes wrong can get in touch in the evening and weekends.
i buy the amsoil by the case $9.00 a qt that way. also it's good for 6,000 miles min. twice what regular oils get so the cost is comparable to other oils. i like that amsoil has GL5 gear oil rating. i believe red line oil has same rating at twice the price. i got the case at a pep boys store it was the last one because they were on sale.
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