Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
11-06-2015, 10:31 PM,
#1
valve adj simplified
there really is no need to remove cam covers or even the timing plug, all that needed is the valve covers removed. and here's why. if you turn the engine until one valve just begins to open , the opposite valve on that cylinder will be at or very close to center of the base circle of the cam ( the sweet spot) and that valve can be adjusted. then roll the engine until the the valve you just adjusted begins to open, as soon as you see any pressure on the valve stop rolling the engine and adjust the opposite valve. technically the valve can be adjusted anywhere on the cam heel which is equal to 180 degrees of crank rotation, but with the method above you'll can be sure it's on the middle of the cam heel. i'v used this method on all single cam internal combustion engines, i'v used this method for 35 years and it's faster and more accurate than setting a cylinder to TDC on a compression stroke. if you could see the cam lobes at TDC you would understand why this method work's so well.
Lightbulb dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
Reply
11-06-2015, 10:54 PM, (This post was last modified: 11-06-2015, 11:07 PM by nick59.)
#2
RE: valve adj simplified
i dont want to throw cold water on you but thats the first time i've ever heard adjusting the valves any way from the prescribed way. what your saying makes sense but i would like to hear why i should not do them that way.so when one valve is opening that tells you the other is closed. isnt there something called overlap. besides adjusting the valves when the timing marks are aligned guarentees the valve is closed.
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
11-07-2015, 10:12 AM, (This post was last modified: 11-07-2015, 10:40 AM by pauli466.)
#3
RE: valve adj simplified
(11-06-2015, 10:54 PM)nick59 Wrote: i dont want to throw cold water on you but thats the first time i've ever heard adjusting the valves any way from the prescribed way. what your saying makes sense but i would like to hear why i should not do them that way.so when one valve is opening that tells you the other is closed. isnt there something called overlap. besides adjusting the valves when the timing marks are aligned guarentees the valve is closed.
if you understand over lap then you know the the lobes are not 90 degrees from each other that's why your not setting the cams to the toe of the lobe, your setting the cam to the bottom of the ramp where it just begins to open the valve. the heel of the opposite lobe will not be dead center for adjusting purposes but it i guarantee it will be much closer to dead center than if you set cams for TDC on compression. look at maustermans cam upgrade pics of cams , and picture the cam ramp bottom at exactly the 12 o-clock position and you can see the other lobe heel will be almost at the 6-oclock position. two reasons for using this procedure is one your not breaking any seals ( cam covers ) and two it's more accurate. on racing engines using extremely tight lashes you need to find the thickest part of the cam heel, the heel can be up to .0005 thinner at 20-30 degrees on each side of the ramps ( TDC ) so if you adjust in that area when the cam gets to the center of the heel the lash will be tighter by .0005. a half thousandth at 10,000 rpm could be the difference between winning a race and bending a valve. the tighter you can get lash the faster the engine will be able to spin. also tighter lashes = less noise. there is no upside to adjusting by the manual. there are many ways to accomplish the same task. the vstar manual would have you disassemble half the engine to make it lighter for removal which is totally unnecessary. yamaha would love ya for buying seals and gaskets for unnecessary procedures. manufactures are always about the money not making things simple look at the right cam in maustermans cam pic and move your mouse from the bottom cam lobe lower ramp to the heel on the top lobe, it will land right in the center of the heel.
Lightbulb dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
Reply
11-07-2015, 06:15 PM,
#4
RE: valve adj simplified
i've heard of overlap, i'm only assuming it has to do with the lob at 12 oclock and the other at 5 oclock.
the intake valve is opening before the exhaust is completely closed in order to get as much fuel in as possible.
in order to adjust the valves without taking the head covers off. still being a hard head, i would note when one valve is opening check the clearance of the other valve, and then for my own satisfaction rock the engine back and forth to see if the gap changes.
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
11-07-2015, 08:19 PM, (This post was last modified: 11-07-2015, 08:27 PM by pauli466.)
#5
RE: valve adj simplified
(11-07-2015, 06:15 PM)nick59 Wrote: i've heard of overlap, i'm only assuming it has to do with the lob at 12 oclock and the other at 5 oclock.
the intake valve is opening before the exhaust is completely closed in order to get as much fuel in as possible.
in order to adjust the valves without taking the head covers off. still being a hard head, i would note when one valve is opening check the clearance of the other valve, and then for my own satisfaction rock the engine back and forth to see if the gap changes.
that would work , to ease your mind. there's is a way to be absolutely on the center of the heel. it will require a bit more fussing but here it is.... roll the engine until the valve is completely open ( on the center of the toe ) then roll the engine exactly 1/4 of a turn from 12 to 3 O-clock which will turn the cam exactly 1/2 turn placing that rocker on the center of the heel..... there's more than one path to get to the same place...lol also please don't turn an engine backwards unless you absolutely need to , it,s never a good idea to do that. timing chains have been known jump if the chain tensioner is weak doing that.
Lightbulb dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
Reply
11-07-2015, 08:53 PM,
#6
RE: valve adj simplified
did'nt know about turning the engine back can loose a chain thanks for that. i thought the cam was half the revs of the engine.
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
11-08-2015, 09:40 AM, (This post was last modified: 11-08-2015, 10:04 AM by pauli466.)
#7
RE: valve adj simplified
(11-07-2015, 08:53 PM)nick59 Wrote: did'nt know about turning the engine back can loose a chain thanks for that. i thought the cam was half the revs of the engine.
your right , so you would need turn the eng 1 full turn after setting the cam toe on the rocker, in all realty there is 180 degrees on the cam where there is no lift as long as your not going under the lowest spec setting like i did you can set valves anywhere in the 180 degrees of no lift. the intake valve set at .0027 ( lowest setting ) won't be noisy but the exhaust set at .0047 will so i went with .0045 and stopped the tick. it always had a tick ( when hot ) at front exhaust which annoyed me. after a valve closes any small rotation will put the area of no lift on the rocker. show me on a car where any timing marks need to be lined up for valve adjustments , there adjusted by observing the action of rockers or fowlers. and on some engines your adjusting 32 valves. when one valve is just starting to open the most the opposite valve can be off from the center of the heel is 20 degrees which is fine by me. i'm really not looking for the perfect center of the heel anyway.
Lightbulb dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
Reply
04-06-2016, 11:47 PM,
#8
RE: valve adj simplified
I have to agree...I do this the same way. But I will add if you are new to engines and try this have someone who is familiar with this to over see.
Reply
04-07-2016, 02:33 PM, (This post was last modified: 04-07-2016, 02:39 PM by pauli466.)
#9
RE: valve adj simplified
(04-06-2016, 11:47 PM)ajclockga Wrote: I have to agree...I do this the same way. But I will add if you are new to engines and try this have someone who is familiar with this to over see.
i agree, anyone has never done valve adjustments should watch some videos of it before even attempting it. getting it wrong has destroyed a lot of good running engines, and it might not happen right away ether.. valves can burn a week after doing it and lead people to believe it was something other than an incorrect adjustment. a lot of 650 owners never realize there's a frame sticker with the hot valve specs 1.5 thousands of an inch for both intake and exhaust, but you'd have be pretty darn fast to get things apart before the engine cools....lol
Lightbulb dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
Reply
06-10-2016, 12:40 PM,
#10
RE: valve adj simplified
Nice discussion guys, I'm valve adjusting the 950 for the first time. Any link to said video's ??
Reply
Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  First Post - Valve cover thread - what tap to use mwittmer 1 158 08-21-2017, 07:21 AM
Last Post: mwittmer
  valve train noise jwilco 4 1,888 07-23-2015, 08:36 PM
Last Post: jwilco
  valve adjustment hazegray 5 1,812 07-11-2015, 11:53 PM
Last Post: hazegray
Bullet_wrench Performing Valve Lash Check, Is this OK (photo)? TwoWheels 4 2,735 02-21-2015, 04:37 PM
Last Post: pauli466
  2003 & 2006 V Star 1100 Classic-Valve Adjusting Necessary? Dreamweaver 8 3,296 02-01-2015, 03:55 PM
Last Post: Dreamweaver
  650 VALVE ADJUSTMENT ? rudyjoe 4 8,564 09-26-2013, 09:39 AM
Last Post: Chuckster

Users browsing this thread:
2 Guest(s)