Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
09-20-2016, 02:20 AM,
#1
fuel cut off solenoid test procedure?
Does anyone know the proper "says in the book" procedure for how to test the fuel cut off solenoids on the bottom of the float bowls?

Thanks...

just trying to diagnose something..

i was pretty sure the carbs were clogged but had to attempt to start it to prove to the owner that it wouldn't run.

the other day after i got the timing fiasco figured out, i went to start it, and it kind of fired briefly a few times but wouldn't run. then after a few seconds it literally emptied out about 1/2 a liter of gasoline through the carbs, HIGH VOLUME out of the vent tube on top, (and every other hole it could possible pee it out of,) all over the crank case and onto the ground.... so... i figure stuck float needle. and the carbs ARE in fact dirty... and will be cleaned.

however, this bike has the cut off solenoids on it, so, i'm wondering if those should have shut the fuel flow off at some point rather than letting it shoot out all over the place.

therefore, i need to test them properly and systematically so i know for sure they don't need to be replaced.

((( i suppose i could plug them in outside of the bowl and turn the key on and see what they do.. but that's not very scientific )))

i think these things are supposed to act more as a fail safe than for the purpose of regulating fuel during running conditions, but... not positive.

what also scares me, is that these bikes are supposed to have catalytic converter type exhausts, and this bike has wide open cobra pipes on it.... i suppose cobra wouldn't make the pipes if it were dangerous, but... without the cat, it is possible, that raw fuel could get super heated if it's running lean at high revs (and rich on the bottom revs), and ignite, causing a fire or worse...

any thoughts on that?

Who are the mechanics on this forum??? unfortunately, no one is answering my questions on the other 10 forums i've posted my questions on, and people have been kind enough to answer me here. but, this guy is liable to make a huge legal fuss over this bike if i don't do everything in my power to prove everything i do is rock solid.... and probably will do so anyway. some people are just like that...

thanks in advance.
Reply
09-20-2016, 07:52 AM,
#2
RE: fuel cut off solenoid test procedure?
https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...tions/1-ai https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...rb-jetting
i would say you have a stuck float.the first link talks about removing the ais.the ais injects air into the exhaust to keep fuel from collecting in the converters and causing them to overheat. with the cobra pipes you don't have cats.so you can remove the ais system.
the second link talks about the carbs. at the very bottom scroll down. it talks about removing the fuel shutoff selonoids.they are there to shut off the fuel in case of tip over....lot of guys remove them and it talks about putting in resistors to prevent the engine light from coming on.
you need to find out what jets are in it, with the cobras and if it was rejetted. read the section on tuning and jetting.
it's best to keep mukuni jets. mains should be 115 front and back, pilot 17.5. mukuni jet needle,pms set 2 turns out.you need to read the tuning section.. delphi and star bike forums are two good ones, i'm supprised you did'nt get help on delphi.
usuallt the pilot jets get dirty, blow them out and clean the side holes thoroughly some take the wire from a bread wrapper and clean the sideholes...
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
09-21-2016, 04:18 AM,
#3
RE: fuel cut off solenoid test procedure?
(09-20-2016, 07:52 AM)nick59 Wrote: https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...tions/1-ai https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...rb-jetting
i would say you have a stuck float.the first link talks about removing the ais.the ais injects air into the exhaust to keep fuel from collecting in the converters and causing them to overheat. with the cobra pipes you don't have cats.so you can remove the ais system.
the second link talks about the carbs. at the very bottom scroll down. it talks about removing the fuel shutoff selonoids.they are there to shut off the fuel in case of tip over....lot of guys remove them and it talks about putting in resistors to prevent the engine light from coming on.
you need to find out what jets are in it, with the cobras and if it was rejetted. read the section on tuning and jetting.
it's best to keep mukuni jets. mains should be 115 front and back, pilot 17.5. mukuni jet needle,pms set 2 turns out.you need to read the tuning section.. delphi and star bike forums are two good ones, i'm supprised you did'nt get help on delphi.
usuallt the pilot jets get dirty, blow them out and clean the side holes thoroughly some take the wire from a bread wrapper and clean the sideholes...
Yeah, unfortunately, as far as the taking this off doing a resistor for that, etc, i'd love to, but it's not my bike, and this guy is nickle and diming me to death as is. he'd never go for all of that stuff.. with that said, whoever put the pipes on did not rejet the carbs. they look to be the stock sizes. i.e. too small. but i have no idea how the bike runs, because it was brought to me broken. the idle air screws, one of them was turned out 2 twists, and the other was turned out about 3/4 of a turn. i'd assume because of the jetting. lol

as for cleaning them out, i almost always have carbs ultrasonic cleaned these days. i've had too many instances when i've taken them out, cleaned them, put them back together only to find that some tiny passageway the thickness of a human hair is still clogged. like on some Kiehin carbs. i don't think these mikunis have that issue though and i probably could get away with doing it myself. but, not taking any risks with this bike. if they don't look brand new, i'll catch flack and he will start "renegotiating"... i may actually have some mikuni jets laying around already in that size though, and if i do, i'll throw them on there during the reassembly. it couldn't hurt. but at least i know a good baseline now.. 115 and 17.5 ... but should the front vs the different be different? They are almost always half or 1 size difference on the majority of bikes due to the heat of the rear cylinder vs front.

as for delphi, i got one response from a man scalding me for not giving my life story before posting and properly introducing myself to the community. which... i guess i can understand, it's only polite, but, i'm not necessarily joining the club, i'm just, in a pinch on a bike i've never done this kind of work on. doesn't mean i'm inexperienced.. i've been working on bikes for years now, it's just that there are so many years makes and models of bikes, most of them EFI now, it's easy to get mixed up with an oddball bike now and then that does things totally different from other bikes (like running the cam chain off of a separate gear instead of from the drive shaft). With that said, i'll probably stick around here and answer some questions for people if i can. but i'm not a v-star owner.. just an unfortunate mechanic that got stuck with a rat's nest bike and didn't know what he was getting himself into... lol. win some / lose some...

speaking of cam chains and such.... this whole thing started with me changing a sprag clutch, and ultimately having to re-time the whole motor. which, i'm 95% sure is OK at this point.

but something i noticed when i initially tried to start it was, at closed throttle, it spun over just fine, but when i opened the throttle, it started kicking back and making a horrible clanking sound on the sprag clutch. i FIGURE this is because the carbs are clogged and keeping it from running, and it was kicking back against the sprag clutch when thinking about firing...

but... i'm also very very worried that the cheap ebay sprag clutch is...... a cheap ebay sprag clutch... you know??? i'd hate to have to replace that a second time, and worse off, i can't return that one because i had to alter the plate it sits in, in order to fit inside the groove on the flywheel.

any thoughts? i will know more once i get to fire it up after the carb clean but... do these bikes notoriously make noises in the sprag clutch area or anything? i'm looking for "naaahh you're fine!" by the way lol
Reply
09-21-2016, 07:44 AM,
#4
RE: fuel cut off solenoid test procedure?
https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...st-do-list
never give it throttle when starting. the tps advances the timing and the clunk you hear is the brand new sprag going in reverse"one way sprag".thats probably how it got messed up in the first place.
if the intake is stock and all that was changed was the pipes, you put the front main jet in the rear carb and buy a new jet for the front. i said 115 but it could be 112 but its close enough.hopefully he didnt mess with the needles.
delphi has a lot of new members and the old guard are trying to keep it tight no idiots..
the other problem with the 1100 is the middle drive shaft, there are two main problems with the 1100 if your aware of them. you can have a excellant motorcycle. https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...rive-shaft
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  V Star 1100 fuel consumption? jmck 12 5,877 12-06-2016, 01:39 PM
Last Post: RuggedNorth
  fuel shut off solenoid fabarker 3 1,895 03-14-2016, 12:50 AM
Last Post: Magnuts
  Fuel coming out of my... ET_Geckoe 2 1,009 12-31-2013, 12:47 AM
Last Post: Kimura

Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)