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12-15-2016, 06:23 PM,
#1
2000 Vstar electrical Issue
Hello All!

I was looking to see if someone that is better than me at electrical can offer me some advice, cause I am very confused...

The problem:
For reasons that probably require their own separate thread (bike had difficulty starting every time right after pumping gas, while on a long trip - never happened before and hasn't happened since), I emptied the battery trying to start my bike. On the other times it happened I was patient enough to wait a few mins before I can start it again, but not this time. I had to get jumped and then I rode 75 miles straight, and when I stopped the battery was completely dead, did not charge at all during the ride.

I put it to the maintainer at home and it fully charged, It was around 13.1 volts with bike off.

Stator:
I tested the stator multiple times, I got around 20 vAC at normal idle on separate days, and each pair was approx same voltage as the other two. One day I got a weird 65vAC at around 3k rpm but never saw that number again.
I did the tests both on stator side of the connector as well as on the other side where the R/R connects, and there was no loss.

Stator was disconnected from R/R during these tests. While connected to the R/R , I get ~11vAC.
Are these numbers normal? I also tested Ohms to ground while bike off and all seems to be ok.

R/R:
I looked online and did the diode test on it, and I got the desired consistency (0,0,0 | same,same,same | 0,0,0 | same,same,same). I dont remember the exact numbers but I think it was around 580 or something.

Battery:
I took daily measurements, every day that I started my bike.
The numbers are such as this:
Bike off / normal Idle / ~3k RPM:
13 / 12.80 / 14.1
12.93 /12.40 / 12.85
12.80 /12.30 / 13
12.71 / 12.4 /13.1
12.73 /12.5 / 13.4
12.78/12.7/ 13.5
12.62/ 12.3 /12.7

I have aux headlights, turned them off completely for 4 days straight and got these numbers:
12.55/ 13.60/13.70
12.90 / 15 /18.70
12.98 / 15.5 / 18
12.9/14.5/17

So with the aux lights off, I assumed the stator was not sending enough juice to keep the battery fully charged. But then I turned the lights off and now i am looking at the R/R as the guilty one based on the latest high readings @ 3k RPM...

What do you think? Any other test I could do? I am getting to the point of giving up and replacing the whole system, stator-r/r-battery Huh

Thanks for any help you could offer...
Reply
12-15-2016, 11:41 PM,
#2
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...ing-system if your over 14.5 volts at 3000rpms its pretty much the regulator. lots of guys go with a '05' road star regulator easy swap and a higher rating for lights.
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
12-16-2016, 11:44 AM,
#3
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-15-2016, 11:41 PM)nick59 Wrote: https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100k...ing-system if your over 14.5 volts at 3000rpms its pretty much the regulator. lots of guys go with a '05' road star regulator easy swap and a higher rating for lights.
Thank you Nick!!

Thats what I thought too after I turned off the aux lights, but I thought it was weird that I was not getting over 14.5 with the aux lights on. I guess they draw a lot of juice.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that months ago I had to replace the stator connector from the stator side, as it was completely melted.

Not sure what caused this. Is it possible the stator may have caused the R/R to fail? (and cause the new one to do the same?)

Basically I am asking whether its a good idea to change both stator and r/r...

Thanks
Reply
12-16-2016, 05:56 PM,
#4
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
Also is 20vAC a normal enough number for a vstar 1100? If anyone has tested their stator...
My sportbike makes much more than that
Reply
12-16-2016, 06:58 PM,
#5
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-16-2016, 05:56 PM)yanni Wrote: Also is 20vAC a normal enough number for a vstar 1100? If anyone has tested their stator...
My sportbike makes much more than that
48 volts at high idle. 36-44 ohms and check for no continuity between the three wires and ground.the plug could of melted because of a bad connection some people solder the connection.sorry all i have is basic info. i got the ohms from a clymers.
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
12-16-2016, 07:31 PM,
#6
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-16-2016, 06:58 PM)nick59 Wrote:
(12-16-2016, 05:56 PM)yanni Wrote: Also is 20vAC a normal enough number for a vstar 1100? If anyone has tested their stator...
My sportbike makes much more than that
48 volts at high idle. 36-44 ohms and check for no continuity between the three wires and ground.the plug could of melted because of a bad connection some people solder the connection.sorry all i have is basic info. i got the ohms from a clymers.
Thank you!

I guess I will have to replace that too, then.... Confused

I appreciate your help!!
Reply
12-16-2016, 08:37 PM, (This post was last modified: 12-16-2016, 08:44 PM by nick59.)
#7
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
do you think 20 volts would melt the connector.i hear these stators are pretty realiable. $360.00 is a lot for a maybe. did you have a good connection with the test leads.

i would check the stator again but first set the idle to 1000
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
12-19-2016, 10:12 PM, (This post was last modified: 12-19-2016, 10:50 PM by pauli466.)
#8
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-16-2016, 08:37 PM)nick59 Wrote: do you think 20 volts would melt the connector.i hear these stators are pretty realiable. $360.00 is a lot for a maybe. did you have a good connection with the test leads.

i would check the stator again but first set the idle to 1000
the stator produces ac current the regulator has a built in rectifier that converts the stators ac current to dc current, you can only check the stator for shorting or resistance you can't check it for output because it only puts out when a demand or a load is on it, the higher the demand the more watts it delivers, maximum output watts is around 230 to 250 watts, volts isn't power watts or amps is the power, if you were to put a 110 volt 100 watt ac light bulb between two of the stator wires is would light up pretty good with the engine at half throttle, you can check the amperage coming out of the stator with one of those loop amp meters but you can only do one wire at a time and have to add the numbers from the three wires together everything electrical would need to be on and the engine running at at least half speed to do that test. when i test my charging system on my 650 i just check voltage at the battery with everything on and running at half throttle voltage should be 13.4 to 13.6 when reving the engine full it shouldn't go over 14 volts if go over that the regulator is going bad, bad regulators usually get pretty hot , you'll know by putting your hand on it if it's overheating

(12-16-2016, 08:37 PM)nick59 Wrote: do you think 20 volts would melt the connector.i hear these stators are pretty realiable. $360.00 is a lot for a maybe. did you have a good connection with the test leads.

i would check the stator again but first set the idle to 1000
where did you find the 20 volts? the voltage in a stator is ac volts and a lot higher than 20 normally over 75 volts AC is produced at the stator, a motorcycle stator is an AC generator, stators are measured in watts or amps usually around 230 watts to 250 watts on a 1100 and amps are probably around 35 to 40, what stators hate the most is not extra lighting its a crappy battery that can't take a full charge because the stator will be working at its maximum capacity trying to keep up the battery which puts a heavy load on the regulator and the wiring, load test batteries often when their getting older and change them when losing capacity and the charging system will last a seriously long time, motorcycle batteries have a nasty habit of going bad with any warning not showing signs of weakening until it quits or burns up the charging system, load testing often will save you this grief
Lightbulb dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
Reply
12-21-2016, 01:06 PM, (This post was last modified: 12-21-2016, 01:09 PM by yanni.)
#9
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-16-2016, 08:37 PM)nick59 Wrote: do you think 20 volts would melt the connector.i hear these stators are pretty realiable. $360.00 is a lot for a maybe. did you have a good connection with the test leads.

i would check the stator again but first set the idle to 1000


My volt meter is auto adjusting but I have an older one that I can select. I can try it but I am sure I will get the same numbers... as for the price I was going to get a ricks for $135, I used one on my ninja and has been working fine since...

(12-19-2016, 10:12 PM)pauli466 Wrote:
(12-16-2016, 08:37 PM)nick59 Wrote: do you think 20 volts would melt the connector.i hear these stators are pretty realiable. $360.00 is a lot for a maybe. did you have a good connection with the test leads.

i would check the stator again but first set the idle to 1000
the stator produces ac current the regulator has a built in rectifier that converts the stators ac current to dc current, you can only check the stator for shorting or resistance you can't check it for output because it only puts out when a demand or a load is on it, the higher the demand the more watts it delivers, maximum output watts is around 230 to 250 watts, volts isn't power watts or amps is the power, if you were to put a 110 volt 100 watt ac light bulb between two of the stator wires is would light up pretty good with the engine at half throttle, you can check the amperage coming out of the stator with one of those loop amp meters but you can only do one wire at a time and have to add the numbers from the three wires together everything electrical would need to be on and the engine running at at least half speed to do that test. when i test my charging system on my 650 i just check voltage at the battery with everything on and running at half throttle voltage should be 13.4 to 13.6 when reving the engine full it shouldn't go over 14 volts if go over that the regulator is going bad, bad regulators usually get pretty hot , you'll know by putting your hand on it if it's overheating

(12-16-2016, 08:37 PM)nick59 Wrote: do you think 20 volts would melt the connector.i hear these stators are pretty realiable. $360.00 is a lot for a maybe. did you have a good connection with the test leads.

i would check the stator again but first set the idle to 1000
where did you find the 20 volts? the voltage in a stator is ac volts and a lot higher than 20 normally over 75 volts AC is produced at the stator, a motorcycle stator is an AC generator, stators are measured in watts or amps usually around 230 watts to 250 watts on a 1100 and amps are probably around 35 to 40, what stators hate the most is not extra lighting its a crappy battery that can't take a full charge because the stator will be working at its maximum capacity trying to keep up the battery which puts a heavy load on the regulator and the wiring, load test batteries often when their getting older and change them when losing capacity and the charging system will last a seriously long time, motorcycle batteries have a nasty habit of going bad with any warning not showing signs of weakening until it quits or burns up the charging system, load testing often will save you this grief
Thanks for your resonse Pauli!

Nick is referring to the 20vAC I am getting when testing my stator at idle, disconnected. I too think it is low and I am worried that if I change the r/r I should prob change the stator too. If it is faulty I do not want it to damage my new r/r
Reply
12-21-2016, 07:57 PM,
#10
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
i'll give you my 2 cents on the 20 volts when a stator fails one of the windings is bad so you will get two readings the same and one will be different.and the first test is an ohm measurement.the second test is a short to ground.clymers doesn't even mention volts. and i hear baaad things about rick stators or it's just biased talk doh no
2007 1100 custom,cobra longs and pods,doubled clutch spring.
Reply
12-21-2016, 08:38 PM,
#11
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-21-2016, 07:57 PM)nick59 Wrote: i'll give you my 2 cents on the 20 volts when a stator fails one of the windings is bad so you will get two readings the same and one will be different.and the first test is an ohm measurement.the second test is a short to ground.clymers doesn't even mention volts. and i hear baaad things about rick stators or it's just biased talk doh no
Thanks Nick!
Ohms is the first test I did, between each other and to ground. We are good there. Readings are the same on all 3 pairs, 20vAC. I will take your 2 cents and only replace the r/r for now, thank you so much for the help!!
Reply
12-22-2016, 11:43 AM, (This post was last modified: 12-22-2016, 11:47 AM by pauli466.)
#12
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-21-2016, 07:57 PM)nick59 Wrote: i'll give you my 2 cents on the 20 volts when a stator fails one of the windings is bad so you will get two readings the same and one will be different.and the first test is an ohm measurement.the second test is a short to ground.clymers doesn't even mention volts. and i hear baaad things about rick stators or it's just biased talk doh no
when your coming up with 20 volts at the stator doesn't that need to be multiplied by 3 because of the three separate fields giving an overall reading of 60 volts which would be just about right, you can always put a 100 watt 110 volt AC bulb between two of the stator wires at half throttle if lights up strong then that field is good then just change the wires around to check all three fields, positive and negative won't matter on the bulb , it's AC current, just don't touch any bare wire or it will hit you pretty good, it won't kill you but it do hurt lol

(12-21-2016, 07:57 PM)nick59 Wrote: i'll give you my 2 cents on the 20 volts when a stator fails one of the windings is bad so you will get two readings the same and one will be different.and the first test is an ohm measurement.the second test is a short to ground.clymers doesn't even mention volts. and i hear baaad things about rick stators or it's just biased talk doh no
i looked at a lot of stators and the yamaha oem ones have the best/thickest epoxy coating on them, which makes them the most durable... imo what good is having a few more watts if the stator won't last is the way i see it
Lightbulb dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
Reply
12-22-2016, 11:59 AM,
#13
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
(12-22-2016, 11:43 AM)pauli466 Wrote:
(12-21-2016, 07:57 PM)nick59 Wrote: i'll give you my 2 cents on the 20 volts when a stator fails one of the windings is bad so you will get two readings the same and one will be different.and the first test is an ohm measurement.the second test is a short to ground.clymers doesn't even mention volts. and i hear baaad things about rick stators or it's just biased talk doh no
when your coming up with 20 volts at the stator doesn't that need to be multiplied by 3 because of the three separate fields giving an overall reading of 60 volts which would be just about right, you can always put a 100 watt 110 volt AC bulb between two of the stator wires at half throttle if lights up strong then that field is good then just change the wires around to check all three fields, positive and negative won't matter on the bulb , it's AC current, just don't touch any bare wire or it will hit you pretty good, it won't kill you but it do hurt lol
Ha! Thats interesting experiment, I may go ahead and try it if I have some time!

As for the multiplication times 3 I never actually thought of that... but I have seen other bikes produce 60 vAC on a single pair so that's what made me think it may be low.

My main concern was if it is possible for a faulty stator (that outputs low voltage) to cause a brand new r/r to fail.Cause I am replacing the r/r for sure
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12-28-2016, 11:37 AM,
#14
RE: 2000 Vstar electrical Issue
Update:

So I replace the r/r with a 2005 road star per nick59's suggestion and voltage seems to be under control; after taking measurements for 3 days, 14.2v is the maximum value I saw, with aux headlights off.

Thank you!
Reply
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